#1Dear Friends & Family

Arrived in Saigon on Wednesday and was picked up by Roxanne and Jake

(daughter and grandson). No, they do not own a car, very few expats do, and

they didn't use a motor scooter, although that is the preferred mode of

transportation in Saigon--they greatly outnumber the cars and bicycles. We did

the usual and took a taxi.

The Ross family live on the south side of Saigon (airport more north) in a very

high rent suburb only two blocks from the International School where they work

and attend. That gave us an opportunity to take the long taxi ride through

Saigon, interesting to say the least. Our 45 minute taxi ride seldom exceeded 25

miles per hour and cost the equivalent of $15. (compare that to Manhattan)

I am here as a non tourist so not stopping to admire the Opera House or the

consulate building from where the US officials escaped via helicopter at the end

of the infamous war. My observations therefore will be different and in no way

intended to be all inclusive.

There are several rivers running through Saigon, and although they are not

terribly polluted, nothing like Bangkok, they are also not developed as beautiful

sights. Perhaps one day they will be. Because the rivers meander, so do the

streets without much rhyme or reason. Some squared blocks are evident, but

not the major ones. There is some English signage, but not consistent so it is

more difficult for non-native speakers to get around. Saigon is also a polyglot

area with many Asians represented, especially Koreans who are plentiful and

entrepreneurial as they are in much of the world where they emigrate.

Roxanne's neighbourhood is in a planned community at the bend of a river. The

land is owned as a lease hold for twenty or thirty years, by a Taiwanese

development company. Housing is varied, but all high end. Roxanne and David

live in two separate high rise complexes considered luxurious by Vietnamese

standards, and quite costly. The apartments cost multiple of what they paid for a

large home on the hill in Malaysia, their last post. I haven't seen David's

apartment, but Roxanne has a two year old 3 bedroom, modern apartment over

looking the river on the 9th floor of a 26 story building. There are 3 buildings in

the complex, with a large pool, small gym, extensive lobby with security. The

main attraction is that it is only two blocks from the school and all of them either

walk, ride bikes. David lives two blocks further away and he motor scooters.

Yesterday morning I went solo while they were all at school and did some

exploring. I passed elaborate, gated villas of upwards of 8000 square feet.

Some of these are actually multiple apartments, others individual homes. More

apartment buildings of various heights, mostly newish under the Taiwanese

development company. Streets are frequently without side walks, or with multiple

use sidewalks, that means motor bikes and bicycles are also parked on the

sidewalks leaving pedestrians to walk around--not many pedestrians on the

streets during the days.

A defining characteristic, however, are the shops, which are everywhere. No big

boxes here. Nearly every building has shops down stairs and living quarters on

the floors above. While the predominant shops are either eateries or salons,

everything is available from paper shops, to fruit vendors, to baby clothes. I

passed one store selling only bed spreads and bathroom linens. Multinationals

are here as well including Baskin Robbins, Carls Jr, Domino Pizza, and Kentucky

Fried Chicken. You can choose Korean BarBQ, Vietnamese sandwiches, several

offerings of Pho soup, a Spanish tapas restaurant with Sangria at $6 a pitcher,

and more. During my hour long stroll I saw few people in any of the stores.

What I did see are idle employees, they are everywhere.

On the streets men in blue shirts sit at the sidewalk watching parked bicycles.

Security is high and obvious around here, but these folks earn very little,

sometimes only the small change they might receive from watching the bikes.

Roxanne tells me there is virtually no crime. The streets are safe, no

kidnappings as they have in other major cities in Asia. The kids walk to school,

take taxis on their own. No one googled me on the street, or even acknowledged

me when I went into some of the stores. That could be a result of my age, not

very worthy of oogling, or their culture. Roxanne assures me that shops are in

and out of business with frequency. I am not surprised because I rarely saw

customers anywhere until the evening. There is an anti-sun culture here,

especially for women, as dark tanned skin is not considered attractive. Women,

who do venture out in the day time, where wide brimmed hats or are shaded by

lace trimmed umbrellas.

This area was developed on former marshy land. The buildings have been

stabilized and even those that are 8 years old and more (it is a new area, not

much in old buildings), there are no settlement cracks evident. Nothing appears

built well, even when it is attractive. Case in point, in Roxanne's building they put

in very cheap Chinese elevators. In her two years in the building everyone of

them have been trapped in a non-working elevator. They are now changing out

the elevators but no one is in a hurry. One elevator is now missing, one has

been replaced, and one is the original Chinese model. The two working

elevators do not "talk to one another" so you might have two on the third floor, or

none.

I say this to show some contrast with the streets. The street are paver stones

which have not been stabilised, although obviously the technology exists

because the buildings are secured. Thus, every year or so the paver blocks sink

into the marsh. They are they lifted out, the land compacted again, and the

blocks relayed. Very labor intensive and inefficient. But, and here is the point,

this is a land of so many people, and such cheap labor, that it doesn't matter.

Forget what you see about technology rich factories where work is done by

robots. Here, people's labor is expendable. The natives don't "live large" as

Roxanne likes to say. I don't know if expectations for a less labor intensive life,

or more riches prevails or not.

In my meanderings the blue shirted security (not clear if they work for the city, the

development, or independently) and the shop people sit and stare, or slumber, or

otherwise pass the time. I am not seeing any hustling, like we see in some

Malaysian streets, certainly in downtown Singapore, and Hong Kong. Much

more reticent here, quiet. In the salon where I had my facial (90 minutes,

luxurious) there were three or four workers for each patron although you did get

individualized treatment.

When labor is so readily available, and so inexpensive, there is no need to

expend the extra funds to fix the streets permanently. The school where the kids

attend and Roxanne and David teach, has multiple personnel hired as cleaners.

There's three or four to each floor in the building, and the classrooms are

immaculate. yesterday I saw two men sweeping leaves from the extensive

lawns. Sweeping as with brush brooms, not rakes, and certainly no noisy

blowers or any electric equipment.

It is an entirely different life style where people are more expendable than money,

or so it seems to the casual observer.

It is very interesting, as it usually is, to be away from the tourist areas, to walk

among the residents (even in this exalted neighbourhood), and ponder life style

here.

Later this morning Sierra and I are going to venture downtown for some

shopping. We will taxi today. More observations to follow.

#2Writing to you from the Mall of Asia in Manila. This is the largest mall I all of

Asia with 1300 shops, restaurants, theaters, art studios, and who knows what.

There are man thousands of people milling about in a relaxed atmosphere. It is

very refreshing to see so many in the relative middle class who are out with

families, young people wandering about.

Let's back up to Friday in Saigon. Sierra, my 15 year old granddaughter, and I

were out for the day. This was our once a year chance to go shopping, and shop

we did. We headed into downtown Saigon from their apartment in the suburbs,

about 45 min in heavy traffic. Our first stop was the fabric market. Two facing

blocks of fabric stores. We had already briefly gone to a mixed market, some of

everything, Phuket market where many tourists go. We did a bit of shopping but

we're more focused in purchasing fabric for Sierra prom dress. The kids. Attend

a private international school with 850 students grades k-12. Hence the prom is

open every year to all high school students, about 240, otherwise it would be too

small to be fun. It was interesting to see clothes from many of the brands we buy

in the US, after all they are manufactured here. Recall my commentary about

much cheap labor and lots of small manufacturing establishments. We decided

that we may pay. More at the better fabric stores and headed there.

I was in heaven and wished that I still sewed my clothes. We saw some

gorgeous fabrics and I was thinking of just buying them because I love fabric so

much. I know there will be a trip to LA fabric center in my future, closets I have

seen to the fabric stores here. Sierra is a very good shopper. We found fabrics

she liked for a dress she had preselected. She will have the dress made by a

local dressmaker.

On to lunch at l'usine. Upscale eatery, fresh foods, lovely luncheon connected to

a boutique similar to Peter Ho in Kuala Lumpur. Few items, well displayed, over

priced, a. Bit snooty. Unlike the area where the Ross family lives, there are many

tourists here. For those of you who have visited saigon, you have been on these

streets, and we saw many tourists while we shopped.

I had previously located on the web a quilt store I was anxious to visit. I have this

plan to make a quilt for Sierra. We found Mekong quilts but rather than a place

to buy quilt fabrics, this is a non profit where they sell handmade quilts from

women striving for independence. Great looks, rustic, hand stitched quilts and

related items. We enjoyed seeing them, and encourage you to visit their web

site, but not wha we were seeking.

We continued to Saigon Square, another market but a bit more upscale where

Sierra did some damage. Can't complain too much when she was able to buy

some Forever 21 dresses and tops, including a dress for Alex, my Arizona.

Granddaughter, for under $10.

The center city of Saigon is a vast mix of up scale malls, shops on the ground

floor of nearly all buildings, wealth and poverty, old and preserved, older and

decrepit. Rustic and rusting tin roofed shelters line much of the river running

through town. There people live without utilities, using the river as their life blood.

In the Us we do a better job of hiding our poor and destitute in their own

enclaves, in Saigon, And we will see again in Manila, the poor and the wealthy

are closer, inhabiting closer space while remaining worlds apart. Is it better to

hide the poverty and pretend it doesn't exist, or live with the very poor in our

midst and turn a blind eye. I found myself, after a while, trying to shut out those

with outstretched palms ( which, by the way are far fewer in Saigon and Manila

than we are used to seeing in Mexico where begging is more rampant.). It is very

hard for me to ignore the need but the numbers are so high, the need so great,

you can't begin as an individual to make a difference, or can we? This is very

difficult for me as I put myself in their place and realize that with all its issues

there still exists the American dream and a relatively corruption free govt.

Our family just met up and I am off, more to follow.

#3We have reached our resort destination where we will spend the week. We

are on the island of Boracay, one of many island in the Philipines, only 8

kilometers long, one kilometer wide. We are staying in district two, in the center

of the island, but getting here was a great adventure.

We spent Sunday morning with a few hours to visit in Manila. While Jake and

David returned to Mall of Asia for ice skating, Roxanne went to another mall for a

message. Sierra and I went to a mall near our hotel for shopping. We found an

arcade in the mall, which was very large by our Arizona standards, and spent an

hour in competitive air hockey. So fun to hang out together. Having your grand

kids to yourself is much more fun than sharing them with their parents.

All of the people we have seen, met, in Manila, have been most gracious,

courteous, friendly, and polite. Even toothless street people say good morning

and smile. We frequently stopped people on the street, or in front of buildings to

ask directions, and everyone responded in a friendly manner. Most delightful

and we felt safe and comfortable. The Phillipines are very western because it's

growth came because of the American military presence during world wars.

English is spoken along with tog-a-log. Manila was a good stop, although I don't

think I would make a point of returning.

And then it was off to the airport for our trip to Boracay, for the first leg of our

journey. Crowded everywhere. The numbers of people are so much higher than

we are used to. Fortunately they are smaller, more homogenous, so they blend.

Our flight was delayed by over an hour and a half. So we had hanging out time.

When the plane finally arrived, they loaded surprisingly quickly, fewer regulations

for cleaning, etc, so getting one group of passengers off and our group on meant

little ground time. Surprisingly, luggage moved quickly as well.

Our flight was only an hour long. We landed in Kalibo, another city. Again, in all

the disorder, deplaning, getting our luggage, finding and arranging for transport

for the next part of our journey, there was logic and order in the seeming chaos.

Before very much time had passed we collected our luggage, arranged to share

a van with seven other passengers and begun our night time trek across the

island, a 90 minute journey.

Another arrival, another disembarking, more order in the chaos, and then onto

smallish outrigger motor boats for the next leg of our journey. The boat ride was

smooth and quick, about ten minutes. And again a landing, and arrival, a

negotiation for still another vehicle. We hired a small motorized cart which took

us from district three where we landed to the island center and our hotel/villa.

The Nirvana is much like the hotel where Shirley and I stayed in Bali. All good.

We left our luggage and went to find some dinner, it was 10: pm. As many

restaurants had stopped serving, we ate from a small stand and had most

delicious home made empanadas, and roasted chicken. If you don't mind eating

with your fingers and drinking from a water bottle, you are good. We enjoyed all

of it and noted the pride the husband/wife team had in the food they sold. We

will return.

A quick trip to the beach, only minutes from the villa and shopping, revealed

dozens on beach side clubs, restaurants, fire twirlers, dancers, beautiful sky,

warm beach sand, and lovely to the touch ocean water. There will be much for

us to do just hanging out. At some point we will take a local tricycle ( a

motorized motor scooter or cycle with a side car, photos to follow on Facebook)

which is the preferred mode of island transportation.

Who knows what the next few days will yield, we are ready.

#4

It is late Tuesday afternoon here, nearly Half way around the world. We have

had two lovely beach and water days and are feeling totally mellow. After a late

start we proceeded to the beach Monday afternoon. Boracay is a small island, 8

kilometers by. 1 kilometer , shaped like a barbell with a pinched center. That

where we are staying, at the center off of White Beach, named for the beautiful

sand.

We had one bit of excitement when David went snorkeling and decided to

befriend a sea urchin. One of its long, glass-like spines struck him in the index

finger hurting like heck and leaving a purple swelling as well as its stinger behind.

We were sitting near the life guard tower and they immediately attended to

David's wound. These can get pretty nasty but David's quick thinking, okay he

wasn't so quick when it came to greeting the sea urchin, and the prompt medical

care, kept the damage to a minimum. We are happy to report that David still has

all ten fingers in working condition. We were favorably impressed when the life

guard and his volunteer helpers went into the ocean to search for the sea urchin.

They don't want these creatures in areas where there are swimmers. The sea

urchin was caught, brought to shore, and split in two. When I asked if they were

just going to trash it they said no. This is a sea creature and will be buried deep

in the sand. You have to love these folks, we do.

Although we were laying around on Monday with frequent dips into the ocean,

between beers for some of us, we also selected a boat trip for today from a local

vendor. Just a handcrafted hobi cat, three sailors/ helpers, and us off for a trip

around the island with a few stops along the way. I do want to report that the

entire Ross Tribe was ready and on the beach ten minutes before our planned

9:30 meet up! Yeah Ross Tribe.

We loaded ourselves into the hobie cat, stored our gear in the single hull, settled

in as best we could on either boom whose webbing was made of hand tied nylon

fishing line; sturdy and serviceable if you didn't mind have the web marks

embossed on your sun soaked tHighs and butt. We came to love those waves

and dips that cooled us off.

Not far from shore our guides told us they had list the anchor on another trip and

were stopping along the way to search for it. We searched for thirty minutes

before moving on sans anchor. Pulling into shore was going to be more

challenging, but we carried on.

First stop Crystal Cove, or somewhere near that location. On a very small island,

probably a half mile or less across, some very clever entrepreneurs set up some

makeshift bamboo diving platforms designed to simulate the famous Mexican

Cliff divers. Platforms ranged from three meters to ten meters, all led to the

ocean waves. Our group was pretty adventurous. Several made it to the ten

meter platform, and I stayed at the three meter platform- but I did it twice, oi vey!

Back in the boat for another hour of splashing and cruising and sun before we

stopped on another very small island for lunch. Yum, vegetables and garlic rice.

Amazing how tasty you can make such simple fare.

Back on the boat for more cruising and our final stop for snorkeling. The

snorkeling wasn't great but it was fun being in the water. Jake fed the fish some

bread he pulled along all day. Didn't sight anything wonderful but had a nice

time.

And now it is home again, showers, clean up, and snacking on the amazing

empanadas we discovered our first night in Boracay. Hot, flaky stuffed with

chicken or beef, potatoes, vegetables, and topped with a luscious peanut paste.

Hmmm, my stomach is calling.

#5

It takes several days, at least, to begin to understand a place, how it works, some

essential truths, systems, even the people.

We are just beginning to understand Boracays structure, the how's and whys,

and this is already our last night. We leave tomorrow for saigon via Manila, a

journey which will take us about 12 hours from the time we leave the hotel until

we arrive home. These past two days have been packed full of activities, sun,

heat, lots of people.

We got a very slow start on wed. Some slept late, then there was some work

Roxanne and David needed to accomplish so I took the kids to the beach to wait

for them. Their electricity and wifi went out so two hour s of waiting in the heat of

the day, on the beach, became more than three hours. Those who know me well

know that waiting for anyone, or anything, is not my strong suit. Mid afternoon,

what to do? Para sailing was on our agenda. The system here and in many

other third world resorts we have frequented is to have runners who attract the

tourists, make deals for tours and attractions, and then take a percentage as

commission. Boracay uses a system like this. Some of our runners were honest

and fair, but a few quoted a price, but then tried to add extras, or didn't show up

because, perhaps, he couldn't get the price he quoted to us from the vendor. On

the whole, we have felt like the runners we met did well by us.

Back to parasailing. What a delightful, careful group. One speed boat from the

shore to the parasailing platform. First boat, holding platform, primitive, but the

speed boat and parasailing equipment was top drawer. Safety was of prime

concern, all three helpers knew what they were doing, all helped make the

experience enjoyable. Jake and Roxanne took off into the sun shine tethered by

sturdy rope to our speeding boat. After Jakes initial OH MY GOD, he settled in

and enjoyed the ride. Sierra wanted to do it alone, so I stayed in the boat. I have

parasailed twice before but this was the Ross Tribes first time. David, sadly,

missed out because he had a migraine and needed rest, quiet, and a dark cool

room.

For our last day we planned a glass bottom boat adventure, another first for the

Ross tribe. Our planning was a bit off, so we snorkels in the am off the beach on

the other side of the island, about a kilometer away. Sights were not terrific but

we did see a brown starfish none of us had seen before. Light cafe au last color

with large chocolate chips on each tentacle. We saw lots of them, and a couple

of them making lots more.

The adventure improved when we decided to return to our hotel, The Nirvana

Hotel, but we're off the main road. We finally settled for a couple of motorcycles

that happened by. For fifty pesos, a little. More that a dollar, I rode on the back of

one, Roxanne and Jake on a second one. We zipped through traffic (Remember

there is very little auto traffic, only business related small trucks and hotel vans).

The bulk of the traffic consists of tricycles, motorcycles with an extended side car.

We have seen as many as 8 persons on one of these small vehicles. They are

everywhere, costs 60 pesos for a tricycle full to go from one side of the island to

the other, or for any fraction of that distance. Tricycles are very efficient on the

narrow main thoroughfare, big enough to do the transportation needed, will take

you door to door, beach to beach. When not carrying passengers, they haul

propane tanks, flour bags, cement blocks, anything you can imagine. They are

truly the workhorses of the island and are common, we are told, in all parts of the

Phillipines , where few locals could afford a car, where wages are still 200 pesos

a day for many ($5.). We loved riding in them and going from point a to point b.

Four of us went out on the glass bottom boat, snorkeling included we later

learned. Here was a case of a runner doing his job. We arranger with a person

on the beach, over a handshake and a deposit, for Cesar to meet us at our hotel.

He was on time to the minute. He helped secure us a tricycle for the five min ride

to the launch point( a wider space on the beach). Roxanne missed this trip, she

was off doing something else. The ride was fun, the snorkeling turned out to be

very good-beautiful corals in a healthy coral bed, plenty of fish, including a lion

fish (poisonous), a box puffer, the longest sea cucumber I have ever seen,

dozens of chocolate chip star fish, plenty of sea urchins, memos, tetras, a few

parrot fish, a wide variety of anemones, some sponge, dozens of coral. Also

some stinging pesky jelly fish. David is a great snorkeling buddy. We were the

last two out of the water when the boat was pulling away.

Boracay is a teeming island economy with new , ever more modern hotels

popping up all over the island. Think Caribbean, not Puerto Vallarta. The locals

are poor by our standards but their needs are met. Plenty of cell phones,

although not Apples. The main dress includes flip flops, thirst and shorts, clean.

We did not meet anyone who was not clean, polite, helpful, respectful, but not

subservient or cloying. Vendors stop asking after one rejection of their goods.

The restaurant workers don't rush you trying to get you into their establishments.

Small shops, some small chain stores as well, abound. There are hundreds of

them. In general they appear to be going from rather primitive to somewhat

sophisticated. Even though they are moving up, as are the accomodations, this

is still third world. One look at the power lines confirms that.

There are hundreds of eating places between the main road and the beach, a

short distance. And there are thousands of people milling about, eating, walking

in and out of the shops.

Given the natural beauty, the reasonable prices, the delightful people, the

enjoyable snorkeling, I wouldn't return, nor would I recommend the island. It is

very crowded, hot, muggy. There are no Mosquitos. The whole area is a bit

messy, a little helter skelter, unplanned. Given all the options I would head to Fiji,

or New Caledonia.

#6

Describing Saigon is akin to the story of the blind men and the elephant. The

one holding the tail thought an elephant was like a rope. The blind man touching

the trunk described the elephant in terms of a snake. And the third blind man,

situated between the two, thought the elephant a house. Depending upon how

long your visit, your point of entry, and your own cultural biases describing

Saigon would be much the same.

On a prior short visit to Saigon I saw the usual tourist sights: the opera house,a

vintage French hotels, the infamous American embassy where our American

helicopters took off on April 29,1975, a winding river traversing great poverty and

elegant hi rise apartments with private pools and security guards, a teeming

market place with bargains in clothing, teas, pearls, and more. Saigon is all of

these, and much more.

Last visit I avoided the tunnels and museum, and the village of Survivors of

napalm, and most reminders of the terrible intrusion we made with our good

intentions and lack of knowledge. Might doesn't make right. This visit, besides

two forays into the downtown district for shopping, I spent my time in the suburb

where Roxanne and family live, work, and attend school, a very upper class

district, Phy My Hung.

A middle class or wealthier family might live in this urban, award winning district

which is characterized by high rise condos facing the river front, sprawling private

schools, lots of open and manicured green space, wide boulevards, and well

maintained contemporary shopping malls. What might be different than we

usually see in suburbia are shops and restaurants at the base of nearly every

building teeming with people once the sun goes down. Restaurants are mostly

dine in and al fresco affairs. The streets are barren during the warmer part of the

day except for the many blue shirted security personnel who appear to secure

every store front, every motorbike or bicycle. There are always an abundance of

workers. We would need to do some research to know if businesses were

required to hire a certain number of people. Wages are low but the number of

personnel everywhere is very high, three or four easily for every job by our

descriptions. In this communist country that does not offer unemployment

insurance, everyone seems to be working. Work may be filing the basket of your

motorbike with mangoes to sell, or working as a teller in a bank, but the self

sufficiency is evident, and the tasks very small.

Local education system supports following rules, memorizing and responding,

not standing out, and that system in turn provides workers for jobs we might

consider brain numbing.

Wherever we have been we, as Americans, have felt welcome. Those who can

speak, or try to speak English. Thursday, while we were still in Boracay, Vietnam

celebrated the 40th anniversary of the end of the war. The Americans left on

April 29 and the North Vietnamese arrived on the 30, 1975. As late as yesterday,

when we did our final shopping run downtown, colored lights in floral designs and

national flags were in evidence everywhere.

It is very expensive to own an auto here, but taxis abound. You pay for distance,

not time. It is common to take a taxi to go five blocks to the all, and pay $1 or

less. The blvd teems with taxis, bicycles, and motorbikes. Riders are required to

wear helmets. I. Spite of the lack of attention to traffic controls, I didn't see any

accidents. All traffic moves slowly and Rush hour can bring a stand still to many

streets. Other than the lack of attention to the sidewalks, which are paver stones

and uneven the streets in Roxanne's district are well maintained.

It is hot. And yes, humidity makes a difference. Fifteen minute walk means you

are covered in sweat and craving air conditioning. When I first arrived I thought I

would make this my last visit to Saigon, now I am looking forward to the next

visit, to seeing the Ross tribe, to joining them on another great adventure.

Thanks for joining me.

Adrienne#1Dear Friends & Family
Arrived in Saigon on Wednesday and was picked up by Roxanne and Jake
(daughter and grandson). No, they do not own a car, very few expats do, and
they didn't use a motor scooter, although that is the preferred mode of
transportation in Saigon--they greatly outnumber the cars and bicycles. We did
the usual and took a taxi.
The Ross family live on the south side of Saigon (airport more north) in a very
high rent suburb only two blocks from the International School where they work
and attend. That gave us an opportunity to take the long taxi ride through
Saigon, interesting to say the least. Our 45 minute taxi ride seldom exceeded 25
miles per hour and cost the equivalent of $15. (compare that to Manhattan)
I am here as a non tourist so not stopping to admire the Opera House or the
consulate building from where the US officials escaped via helicopter at the end
of the infamous war. My observations therefore will be different and in no way
intended to be all inclusive.
There are several rivers running through Saigon, and although they are not
terribly polluted, nothing like Bangkok, they are also not developed as beautiful
sights. Perhaps one day they will be. Because the rivers meander, so do the
streets without much rhyme or reason. Some squared blocks are evident, but
not the major ones. There is some English signage, but not consistent so it is
more difficult for non-native speakers to get around. Saigon is also a polyglot
area with many Asians represented, especially Koreans who are plentiful and
entrepreneurial as they are in much of the world where they emigrate.
Roxanne's neighbourhood is in a planned community at the bend of a river. The
land is owned as a lease hold for twenty or thirty years, by a Taiwanese
development company. Housing is varied, but all high end. Roxanne and David
live in two separate high rise complexes considered luxurious by Vietnamese
standards, and quite costly. The apartments cost multiple of what they paid for a
large home on the hill in Malaysia, their last post. I haven't seen David's
apartment, but Roxanne has a two year old 3 bedroom, modern apartment over
looking the river on the 9th floor of a 26 story building. There are 3 buildings in
the complex, with a large pool, small gym, extensive lobby with security. The
main attraction is that it is only two blocks from the school and all of them either
walk, ride bikes. David lives two blocks further away and he motor scooters.
Yesterday morning I went solo while they were all at school and did some
exploring. I passed elaborate, gated villas of upwards of 8000 square feet.
Some of these are actually multiple apartments, others individual homes. More
apartment buildings of various heights, mostly newish under the Taiwanese
development company. Streets are frequently without side walks, or with multiple
use sidewalks, that means motor bikes and bicycles are also parked on the
sidewalks leaving pedestrians to walk around--not many pedestrians on the
streets during the days.
A defining characteristic, however, are the shops, which are everywhere. No big
boxes here. Nearly every building has shops down stairs and living quarters on
the floors above. While the predominant shops are either eateries or salons,
everything is available from paper shops, to fruit vendors, to baby clothes. I
passed one store selling only bed spreads and bathroom linens. Multinationals
are here as well including Baskin Robbins, Carls Jr, Domino Pizza, and Kentucky
Fried Chicken. You can choose Korean BarBQ, Vietnamese sandwiches, several
offerings of Pho soup, a Spanish tapas restaurant with Sangria at $6 a pitcher,
and more. During my hour long stroll I saw few people in any of the stores.
What I did see are idle employees, they are everywhere.
On the streets men in blue shirts sit at the sidewalk watching parked bicycles.
Security is high and obvious around here, but these folks earn very little,
sometimes only the small change they might receive from watching the bikes.
Roxanne tells me there is virtually no crime. The streets are safe, no
kidnappings as they have in other major cities in Asia. The kids walk to school,
take taxis on their own. No one googled me on the street, or even acknowledged
me when I went into some of the stores. That could be a result of my age, not
very worthy of oogling, or their culture. Roxanne assures me that shops are in
and out of business with frequency. I am not surprised because I rarely saw
customers anywhere until the evening. There is an anti-sun culture here,
especially for women, as dark tanned skin is not considered attractive. Women,
who do venture out in the day time, where wide brimmed hats or are shaded by
lace trimmed umbrellas.
This area was developed on former marshy land. The buildings have been
stabilized and even those that are 8 years old and more (it is a new area, not
much in old buildings), there are no settlement cracks evident. Nothing appears
built well, even when it is attractive. Case in point, in Roxanne's building they put
in very cheap Chinese elevators. In her two years in the building everyone of
them have been trapped in a non-working elevator. They are now changing out
the elevators but no one is in a hurry. One elevator is now missing, one has
been replaced, and one is the original Chinese model. The two working
elevators do not "talk to one another" so you might have two on the third floor, or
none.
I say this to show some contrast with the streets. The street are paver stones
which have not been stabilised, although obviously the technology exists
because the buildings are secured. Thus, every year or so the paver blocks sink
into the marsh. They are they lifted out, the land compacted again, and the
blocks relayed. Very labor intensive and inefficient. But, and here is the point,
this is a land of so many people, and such cheap labor, that it doesn't matter.
Forget what you see about technology rich factories where work is done by
robots. Here, people's labor is expendable. The natives don't "live large" as
Roxanne likes to say. I don't know if expectations for a less labor intensive life,
or more riches prevails or not.
In my meanderings the blue shirted security (not clear if they work for the city, the
development, or independently) and the shop people sit and stare, or slumber, or
otherwise pass the time. I am not seeing any hustling, like we see in some
Malaysian streets, certainly in downtown Singapore, and Hong Kong. Much
more reticent here, quiet. In the salon where I had my facial (90 minutes,
luxurious) there were three or four workers for each patron although you did get
individualized treatment.
When labor is so readily available, and so inexpensive, there is no need to
expend the extra funds to fix the streets permanently. The school where the kids
attend and Roxanne and David teach, has multiple personnel hired as cleaners.
There's three or four to each floor in the building, and the classrooms are
immaculate. yesterday I saw two men sweeping leaves from the extensive
lawns. Sweeping as with brush brooms, not rakes, and certainly no noisy
blowers or any electric equipment.
It is an entirely different life style where people are more expendable than money,
or so it seems to the casual observer.
It is very interesting, as it usually is, to be away from the tourist areas, to walk
among the residents (even in this exalted neighbourhood), and ponder life style
here.
Later this morning Sierra and I are going to venture downtown for some
shopping. We will taxi today. More observations to follow.
#2Writing to you from the Mall of Asia in Manila. This is the largest mall I all of
Asia with 1300 shops, restaurants, theaters, art studios, and who knows what.
There are man thousands of people milling about in a relaxed atmosphere. It is
very refreshing to see so many in the relative middle class who are out with
families, young people wandering about.
Let's back up to Friday in Saigon. Sierra, my 15 year old granddaughter, and I
were out for the day. This was our once a year chance to go shopping, and shop
we did. We headed into downtown Saigon from their apartment in the suburbs,
about 45 min in heavy traffic. Our first stop was the fabric market. Two facing
blocks of fabric stores. We had already briefly gone to a mixed market, some of
everything, Phuket market where many tourists go. We did a bit of shopping but
we're more focused in purchasing fabric for Sierra prom dress. The kids. Attend
a private international school with 850 students grades k-12. Hence the prom is
open every year to all high school students, about 240, otherwise it would be too
small to be fun. It was interesting to see clothes from many of the brands we buy
in the US, after all they are manufactured here. Recall my commentary about
much cheap labor and lots of small manufacturing establishments. We decided
that we may pay. More at the better fabric stores and headed there.
I was in heaven and wished that I still sewed my clothes. We saw some
gorgeous fabrics and I was thinking of just buying them because I love fabric so
much. I know there will be a trip to LA fabric center in my future, closets I have
seen to the fabric stores here. Sierra is a very good shopper. We found fabrics
she liked for a dress she had preselected. She will have the dress made by a
local dressmaker.
On to lunch at l'usine. Upscale eatery, fresh foods, lovely luncheon connected to
a boutique similar to Peter Ho in Kuala Lumpur. Few items, well displayed, over
priced, a. Bit snooty. Unlike the area where the Ross family lives, there are many
tourists here. For those of you who have visited saigon, you have been on these
streets, and we saw many tourists while we shopped.
I had previously located on the web a quilt store I was anxious to visit. I have this
plan to make a quilt for Sierra. We found Mekong quilts but rather than a place
to buy quilt fabrics, this is a non profit where they sell handmade quilts from
women striving for independence. Great looks, rustic, hand stitched quilts and
related items. We enjoyed seeing them, and encourage you to visit their web
site, but not wha we were seeking.
We continued to Saigon Square, another market but a bit more upscale where
Sierra did some damage. Can't complain too much when she was able to buy
some Forever 21 dresses and tops, including a dress for Alex, my Arizona.
Granddaughter, for under $10.
The center city of Saigon is a vast mix of up scale malls, shops on the ground
floor of nearly all buildings, wealth and poverty, old and preserved, older and
decrepit. Rustic and rusting tin roofed shelters line much of the river running
through town. There people live without utilities, using the river as their life blood.
In the Us we do a better job of hiding our poor and destitute in their own
enclaves, in Saigon, And we will see again in Manila, the poor and the wealthy
are closer, inhabiting closer space while remaining worlds apart. Is it better to
hide the poverty and pretend it doesn't exist, or live with the very poor in our
midst and turn a blind eye. I found myself, after a while, trying to shut out those
with outstretched palms ( which, by the way are far fewer in Saigon and Manila
than we are used to seeing in Mexico where begging is more rampant.). It is very
hard for me to ignore the need but the numbers are so high, the need so great,
you can't begin as an individual to make a difference, or can we? This is very
difficult for me as I put myself in their place and realize that with all its issues
there still exists the American dream and a relatively corruption free govt.
Our family just met up and I am off, more to follow.
#3We have reached our resort destination where we will spend the week. We
are on the island of Boracay, one of many island in the Philipines, only 8
kilometers long, one kilometer wide. We are staying in district two, in the center
of the island, but getting here was a great adventure.
We spent Sunday morning with a few hours to visit in Manila. While Jake and
David returned to Mall of Asia for ice skating, Roxanne went to another mall for a
message. Sierra and I went to a mall near our hotel for shopping. We found an
arcade in the mall, which was very large by our Arizona standards, and spent an
hour in competitive air hockey. So fun to hang out together. Having your grand
kids to yourself is much more fun than sharing them with their parents.
All of the people we have seen, met, in Manila, have been most gracious,
courteous, friendly, and polite. Even toothless street people say good morning
and smile. We frequently stopped people on the street, or in front of buildings to
ask directions, and everyone responded in a friendly manner. Most delightful
and we felt safe and comfortable. The Phillipines are very western because it's
growth came because of the American military presence during world wars.
English is spoken along with tog-a-log. Manila was a good stop, although I don't
think I would make a point of returning.
And then it was off to the airport for our trip to Boracay, for the first leg of our
journey. Crowded everywhere. The numbers of people are so much higher than
we are used to. Fortunately they are smaller, more homogenous, so they blend.
Our flight was delayed by over an hour and a half. So we had hanging out time.
When the plane finally arrived, they loaded surprisingly quickly, fewer regulations
for cleaning, etc, so getting one group of passengers off and our group on meant
little ground time. Surprisingly, luggage moved quickly as well.
Our flight was only an hour long. We landed in Kalibo, another city. Again, in all
the disorder, deplaning, getting our luggage, finding and arranging for transport
for the next part of our journey, there was logic and order in the seeming chaos.
Before very much time had passed we collected our luggage, arranged to share
a van with seven other passengers and begun our night time trek across the
island, a 90 minute journey.
Another arrival, another disembarking, more order in the chaos, and then onto
smallish outrigger motor boats for the next leg of our journey. The boat ride was
smooth and quick, about ten minutes. And again a landing, and arrival, a
negotiation for still another vehicle. We hired a small motorized cart which took
us from district three where we landed to the island center and our hotel/villa.
The Nirvana is much like the hotel where Shirley and I stayed in Bali. All good.
We left our luggage and went to find some dinner, it was 10: pm. As many
restaurants had stopped serving, we ate from a small stand and had most
delicious home made empanadas, and roasted chicken. If you don't mind eating
with your fingers and drinking from a water bottle, you are good. We enjoyed all
of it and noted the pride the husband/wife team had in the food they sold. We
will return.
A quick trip to the beach, only minutes from the villa and shopping, revealed
dozens on beach side clubs, restaurants, fire twirlers, dancers, beautiful sky,
warm beach sand, and lovely to the touch ocean water. There will be much for
us to do just hanging out. At some point we will take a local tricycle ( a
motorized motor scooter or cycle with a side car, photos to follow on Facebook)
which is the preferred mode of island transportation.
Who knows what the next few days will yield, we are ready.
#4
It is late Tuesday afternoon here, nearly Half way around the world. We have
had two lovely beach and water days and are feeling totally mellow. After a late
start we proceeded to the beach Monday afternoon. Boracay is a small island, 8
kilometers by. 1 kilometer , shaped like a barbell with a pinched center. That
where we are staying, at the center off of White Beach, named for the beautiful
sand.
We had one bit of excitement when David went snorkeling and decided to
befriend a sea urchin. One of its long, glass-like spines struck him in the index
finger hurting like heck and leaving a purple swelling as well as its stinger behind.
We were sitting near the life guard tower and they immediately attended to
David's wound. These can get pretty nasty but David's quick thinking, okay he
wasn't so quick when it came to greeting the sea urchin, and the prompt medical
care, kept the damage to a minimum. We are happy to report that David still has
all ten fingers in working condition. We were favorably impressed when the life
guard and his volunteer helpers went into the ocean to search for the sea urchin.
They don't want these creatures in areas where there are swimmers. The sea
urchin was caught, brought to shore, and split in two. When I asked if they were
just going to trash it they said no. This is a sea creature and will be buried deep
in the sand. You have to love these folks, we do.
Although we were laying around on Monday with frequent dips into the ocean,
between beers for some of us, we also selected a boat trip for today from a local
vendor. Just a handcrafted hobi cat, three sailors/ helpers, and us off for a trip
around the island with a few stops along the way. I do want to report that the
entire Ross Tribe was ready and on the beach ten minutes before our planned
9:30 meet up! Yeah Ross Tribe.
We loaded ourselves into the hobie cat, stored our gear in the single hull, settled
in as best we could on either boom whose webbing was made of hand tied nylon
fishing line; sturdy and serviceable if you didn't mind have the web marks
embossed on your sun soaked tHighs and butt. We came to love those waves
and dips that cooled us off.
Not far from shore our guides told us they had list the anchor on another trip and
were stopping along the way to search for it. We searched for thirty minutes
before moving on sans anchor. Pulling into shore was going to be more
challenging, but we carried on.
First stop Crystal Cove, or somewhere near that location. On a very small island,
probably a half mile or less across, some very clever entrepreneurs set up some
makeshift bamboo diving platforms designed to simulate the famous Mexican
Cliff divers. Platforms ranged from three meters to ten meters, all led to the
ocean waves. Our group was pretty adventurous. Several made it to the ten
meter platform, and I stayed at the three meter platform- but I did it twice, oi vey!
Back in the boat for another hour of splashing and cruising and sun before we
stopped on another very small island for lunch. Yum, vegetables and garlic rice.
Amazing how tasty you can make such simple fare.
Back on the boat for more cruising and our final stop for snorkeling. The
snorkeling wasn't great but it was fun being in the water. Jake fed the fish some
bread he pulled along all day. Didn't sight anything wonderful but had a nice
time.
And now it is home again, showers, clean up, and snacking on the amazing
empanadas we discovered our first night in Boracay. Hot, flaky stuffed with
chicken or beef, potatoes, vegetables, and topped with a luscious peanut paste.
Hmmm, my stomach is calling.
#5
It takes several days, at least, to begin to understand a place, how it works, some
essential truths, systems, even the people.
We are just beginning to understand Boracays structure, the how's and whys,
and this is already our last night. We leave tomorrow for saigon via Manila, a
journey which will take us about 12 hours from the time we leave the hotel until
we arrive home. These past two days have been packed full of activities, sun,
heat, lots of people.
We got a very slow start on wed. Some slept late, then there was some work
Roxanne and David needed to accomplish so I took the kids to the beach to wait
for them. Their electricity and wifi went out so two hour s of waiting in the heat of
the day, on the beach, became more than three hours. Those who know me well
know that waiting for anyone, or anything, is not my strong suit. Mid afternoon,
what to do? Para sailing was on our agenda. The system here and in many
other third world resorts we have frequented is to have runners who attract the
tourists, make deals for tours and attractions, and then take a percentage as
commission. Boracay uses a system like this. Some of our runners were honest
and fair, but a few quoted a price, but then tried to add extras, or didn't show up
because, perhaps, he couldn't get the price he quoted to us from the vendor. On
the whole, we have felt like the runners we met did well by us.
Back to parasailing. What a delightful, careful group. One speed boat from the
shore to the parasailing platform. First boat, holding platform, primitive, but the
speed boat and parasailing equipment was top drawer. Safety was of prime
concern, all three helpers knew what they were doing, all helped make the
experience enjoyable. Jake and Roxanne took off into the sun shine tethered by
sturdy rope to our speeding boat. After Jakes initial OH MY GOD, he settled in
and enjoyed the ride. Sierra wanted to do it alone, so I stayed in the boat. I have
parasailed twice before but this was the Ross Tribes first time. David, sadly,
missed out because he had a migraine and needed rest, quiet, and a dark cool
room.
For our last day we planned a glass bottom boat adventure, another first for the
Ross tribe. Our planning was a bit off, so we snorkels in the am off the beach on
the other side of the island, about a kilometer away. Sights were not terrific but
we did see a brown starfish none of us had seen before. Light cafe au last color
with large chocolate chips on each tentacle. We saw lots of them, and a couple
of them making lots more.
The adventure improved when we decided to return to our hotel, The Nirvana
Hotel, but we're off the main road. We finally settled for a couple of motorcycles
that happened by. For fifty pesos, a little. More that a dollar, I rode on the back of
one, Roxanne and Jake on a second one. We zipped through traffic (Remember
there is very little auto traffic, only business related small trucks and hotel vans).
The bulk of the traffic consists of tricycles, motorcycles with an extended side car.
We have seen as many as 8 persons on one of these small vehicles. They are
everywhere, costs 60 pesos for a tricycle full to go from one side of the island to
the other, or for any fraction of that distance. Tricycles are very efficient on the
narrow main thoroughfare, big enough to do the transportation needed, will take
you door to door, beach to beach. When not carrying passengers, they haul
propane tanks, flour bags, cement blocks, anything you can imagine. They are
truly the workhorses of the island and are common, we are told, in all parts of the
Phillipines , where few locals could afford a car, where wages are still 200 pesos
a day for many ($5.). We loved riding in them and going from point a to point b.
Four of us went out on the glass bottom boat, snorkeling included we later
learned. Here was a case of a runner doing his job. We arranger with a person
on the beach, over a handshake and a deposit, for Cesar to meet us at our hotel.
He was on time to the minute. He helped secure us a tricycle for the five min ride
to the launch point( a wider space on the beach). Roxanne missed this trip, she
was off doing something else. The ride was fun, the snorkeling turned out to be
very good-beautiful corals in a healthy coral bed, plenty of fish, including a lion
fish (poisonous), a box puffer, the longest sea cucumber I have ever seen,
dozens of chocolate chip star fish, plenty of sea urchins, memos, tetras, a few
parrot fish, a wide variety of anemones, some sponge, dozens of coral. Also
some stinging pesky jelly fish. David is a great snorkeling buddy. We were the
last two out of the water when the boat was pulling away.
Boracay is a teeming island economy with new , ever more modern hotels
popping up all over the island. Think Caribbean, not Puerto Vallarta. The locals
are poor by our standards but their needs are met. Plenty of cell phones,
although not Apples. The main dress includes flip flops, thirst and shorts, clean.
We did not meet anyone who was not clean, polite, helpful, respectful, but not
subservient or cloying. Vendors stop asking after one rejection of their goods.
The restaurant workers don't rush you trying to get you into their establishments.
Small shops, some small chain stores as well, abound. There are hundreds of
them. In general they appear to be going from rather primitive to somewhat
sophisticated. Even though they are moving up, as are the accomodations, this
is still third world. One look at the power lines confirms that.
There are hundreds of eating places between the main road and the beach, a
short distance. And there are thousands of people milling about, eating, walking
in and out of the shops.
Given the natural beauty, the reasonable prices, the delightful people, the
enjoyable snorkeling, I wouldn't return, nor would I recommend the island. It is
very crowded, hot, muggy. There are no Mosquitos. The whole area is a bit
messy, a little helter skelter, unplanned. Given all the options I would head to Fiji,
or New Caledonia.
#6
Describing Saigon is akin to the story of the blind men and the elephant. The
one holding the tail thought an elephant was like a rope. The blind man touching
the trunk described the elephant in terms of a snake. And the third blind man,
situated between the two, thought the elephant a house. Depending upon how
long your visit, your point of entry, and your own cultural biases describing
Saigon would be much the same.
On a prior short visit to Saigon I saw the usual tourist sights: the opera house,a
vintage French hotels, the infamous American embassy where our American
helicopters took off on April 29,1975, a winding river traversing great poverty and
elegant hi rise apartments with private pools and security guards, a teeming
market place with bargains in clothing, teas, pearls, and more. Saigon is all of
these, and much more.
Last visit I avoided the tunnels and museum, and the village of Survivors of
napalm, and most reminders of the terrible intrusion we made with our good
intentions and lack of knowledge. Might doesn't make right. This visit, besides
two forays into the downtown district for shopping, I spent my time in the suburb
where Roxanne and family live, work, and attend school, a very upper class
district, Phy My Hung.
A middle class or wealthier family might live in this urban, award winning district
which is characterized by high rise condos facing the river front, sprawling private
schools, lots of open and manicured green space, wide boulevards, and well
maintained contemporary shopping malls. What might be different than we
usually see in suburbia are shops and restaurants at the base of nearly every
building teeming with people once the sun goes down. Restaurants are mostly
dine in and al fresco affairs. The streets are barren during the warmer part of the
day except for the many blue shirted security personnel who appear to secure
every store front, every motorbike or bicycle. There are always an abundance of
workers. We would need to do some research to know if businesses were
required to hire a certain number of people. Wages are low but the number of
personnel everywhere is very high, three or four easily for every job by our
descriptions. In this communist country that does not offer unemployment
insurance, everyone seems to be working. Work may be filing the basket of your
motorbike with mangoes to sell, or working as a teller in a bank, but the self
sufficiency is evident, and the tasks very small.
Local education system supports following rules, memorizing and responding,
not standing out, and that system in turn provides workers for jobs we might
consider brain numbing.
Wherever we have been we, as Americans, have felt welcome. Those who can
speak, or try to speak English. Thursday, while we were still in Boracay, Vietnam
celebrated the 40th anniversary of the end of the war. The Americans left on
April 29 and the North Vietnamese arrived on the 30, 1975. As late as yesterday,
when we did our final shopping run downtown, colored lights in floral designs and
national flags were in evidence everywhere.
It is very expensive to own an auto here, but taxis abound. You pay for distance,
not time. It is common to take a taxi to go five blocks to the all, and pay $1 or
less. The blvd teems with taxis, bicycles, and motorbikes. Riders are required to
wear helmets. I. Spite of the lack of attention to traffic controls, I didn't see any
accidents. All traffic moves slowly and Rush hour can bring a stand still to many
streets. Other than the lack of attention to the sidewalks, which are paver stones
and uneven the streets in Roxanne's district are well maintained.
It is hot. And yes, humidity makes a difference. Fifteen minute walk means you
are covered in sweat and craving air conditioning. When I first arrived I thought I
would make this my last visit to Saigon, now I am looking forward to the next
visit, to seeing the Ross tribe, to joining them on another great adventure.
Thanks for joining me.
Adrienne